Kunchan Smritivanam's Kunchan Nambiar

Kunjan Nambiar is a Malayalam poet who is the auteur of Thullal. The story of how this genius began his journey is remarkable in itself…

During a temple festival, Kunjan Nambiar accompanied Chaakiar Koothu who performed the traditional dance by right of heredity. Kunjan was on the copper drum (Mizhavu) when he committed an error. The Chaakiar gave him a public talking-to for dozing off. Next day Kunjan took the stage where the Chaakiar was performing. His daring itself drew attention. His unique attire ensured he kept it. Then Kunjan began his own performance, an alternative take on the traditional Chaakiar dance and song. Kunjan performed Kalyanasougandhikam from the epic Mahabharat. 

It is the story of Bhim’s search for the Soughandika flower for Draupadi, who is enamoured by its fragrance when they are exiled in the forest. Bhim proceeds to fetch it for he. On his way he finds an old monkey blocking his path. After requests to move fail, Bhim tries to lift it aside, but is unable to even move its tail and his mace is trapped under it.  Bhim realizes the monkey is a divine form & asks forgiveness for his  presumptiousness.  Hanuman reveals himself, blesses Bhim and tells him where to find Soughandika.

The audience could read between Kunjan’s lines and responded avidly, The Chaakiar was left speechles. The Chaakiar tried his best to halt Kunjan’s right to perform by getting the King of Ambalapuzha to ban Kunjan’s entry itself, but Kunjan’s satirical art found audiences everywhere.

The 10 thullals of Kunjan live on till date. Through Thullal this poet sought to show  the ills of society and it is but fitting that this genius has a medicinal herb grove named after him  - The Kunchan Smritivanam at Cholanoor Peacock Sanctuary

3 forms of Thullal (which means dance) found a stage:

·      Ottanthullal – High paced, fast tempo performance with a highly accentuated face as in Kathakali topped by a serpent crown
·      Seethankanthullal – The meter and rhythm is slower than in Ottan and there’s a different costume and the crown has no symbol
·      Parayanthullal – The dancer stays erect and relies on gesture and since there’s no dance the performance tempo is the slowest


Peacock Watch at Cholanoor Peacock Sanctuary

The Cholanoor Peacock Sanctuary is in Mayiladumpara, Palakkad. This is where 200 peacocks strut around along with some 100 species of birds. Walk around a rocky 500 acres of this sanctuary in Alathur forest range, which sprawls over the districts Palakkad & Thrissur.

In this sanctuary, there are 200 acres of a medicinal herb grove - Kunchan Smritivanam. Literally meaning in the memory of Kunchan –  That is Kunchan Nambiar, renowned Malayalam poet.

After the rains butterflies add to the colourscape.

Location of Cholanoor Peacock Sanctuary

·      It’s 30 km from Palakkad, reached most easily by train
  
·      By air, Coimbatore would be closest airport and 55 km away

Trek to Pakshipatalam

Pakshipatalam means realm. It is located in the Brahmagiri hills of Thirunelli, which is 1740 m above sea level, and 35 km approx from Mananthavady in Wayanad District. It lies on the Kerala Karnataka border spanning Begur range in the Nilgiri biosphere of Wayanad Sanctuary and Srimangala range in Karnataka.

The northern part at Brahmagiri has the rock caves in Karnataka therefore Pakshipatalam is called Munikkal caves.

There are 2 treks when one speaks of Pakshipatalam:
1. Thirunelli to Brahmagiri – 3 km - this trek involves a steep climb for 1-2 hours
2. Brahmagiri to Pakshipatalam – 7 km – this is a gradual incline with the trek taking about 2- 3 hours.

Trek Trail Features:  
The trek is  through the reserve forest area beginning with bamboo and shrub with streams and rivulets all the way to open ground with a view of the Brahmagiri hills and the Thirunelli town in the valley below.       There’s a watch tower with a bird’s eye view of forest & hills.   Then you head back down to cross to grasslands with a surrounding of hills, after which Kerala gives way to Karnataka where stands the granite rock of Pakshipatalam.   Reaching it is a downward trek through forest area and a stream and then a climb to cross the border. Then come the foothills of Pakshipatalam, where you scale the rock formation. You will come across caves and be at the heart of darkness. The most fatiguing part of the trek is jumping boulders!

Some useful tips:
·      Leeches in plenty so carry salt to pour on them.
·      Try and catch sight of the deers and Malabar squirrels while keeping an eye out for the king cobra
·      The pakshi (birds) of Pakshipatalam are spotted only in the early morning hours.

Trekking Permissions:

·      The trek must be taken after permission of the Forest Officer
·      Permissions open except in the monsoon seasons
·      Charges:-
(a) Rs. 800/-for 5 including permit and guide
(b) Rs. 100 for extra person.
(c) Rs.1000/- for foreign group of 5 members
·      It is compulsory to take the forest guard as guide
·      The Forest Office is open early, as treks start at 7:30 am


 Contact Information for the treks:
DFO
North Wayanad
Ph: 04935-240233
Thirunelli Forest Bungalow Contact Ph: 04935-210377


What Else to Do:
·      Watch the Papanasini stream from the Thirunelli temple. Please note Papanisi is a holy site where last rites take place. It is 1 km from Forest Bungalow and the beginning of the trek.
·      Picnic at Kuruva Island- this is an oasis of untouched bliss. There are 950 acres of evergreen forest with plenty of birds and lovely orchids. It is located 17 km east of Mananthavady and  40 km to north west of the town Sulthan Battery.

Tips:
· Best time to go is October
· Cover legs in mustard oil, tobacco to guard against leeches
· Carry a first aid kit
· Pause on seeing mist and wait till it dissipates to continue
· Obey the forest guard
· Carry a torch and don’t depend on mobile torch light
· Reaching there: The nearest airport is Karipur in Kozhikode, an hour ride from city centre. Take a bus from the KSRTC stand in the city centre. Get off at the town called Sulthan Battery 98 km away. Take an auto to Wayanad which is 12 km away Or take a jeep/bus from Kozhikode to Wayanad Or take a bus from Manthanavady to Thirunelli.



Picnic and trek at Banasura

The area where the Banasura Sagar dam is located in Wayanad, Kerala is an ideal place to go trekking and enjoy a picnic during the flowering season. You can trek up the Banasura Hill for a panoramic view of Banasura Sagar dam. The Banasura Sagar dam is the largest earthern dam in India and the second largest in India
  
How to reach:
The nearest airport is Karipur in Kozhikode, an hour's ride from the city centre. Take a bus from the KSRTC stand in the city centre. The nearest towns are Kalpetta and Padinjarathara

          Banasura View

         

Visiting Ambalavayal Heritage Museum

Looking for 2nd century artifacts? The Ambalavayal Heritage Museum in Wayanad is the place to see. It is here that you will see first-hand the hunting tools, stone weapons & clay figurines used by tribals of a bygone age who lived in the mountains of Wayanad.

Museum Timings: It is open from 10 am to 5 pm

Watch a video link: Ambalavayal Heritage Museum 

How to Reach: 
  • The nearest airport is Karipur in Kozhikode, an hour's ride from the city centre.
  • Take a bus from the KSRTC stand in the city centre. Get off at the town called Sulthan Battery 98 km away. Take an auto to Wayanad which is 12 km away Or take a bus directly to Wayanad, around an hour and 45 minutes






Eating out at Ariya Niwas

If you are visiting Thiruvanthapuram, don’t miss Ariya Niwas. It is in the heart of the city right across within walking distance of the railway station. They have neat, clean accommodation and attentive staff. The best part is their restaurant Sabari. 

Sabari restaurant at Arya Niwas is a multi-cuisine restaurant, serving Punjabi, Chinese and Tandoori food. However, it is the traditional Kerala thali that is the most popular.
 They have two options – one served on a plantain leaf on ground floor in a non-ac. area, and the other where the food is served in a steel plate with the plantain leaf on the first floor ac. area. If you don’t want to go the whole hog, you can ask for a selection.

Traditional Kerala Thali Menu: What you get in the full thali are the following yummy things -
  • Jeera water
  • Kerala paratha
  • Avial
  • Fried large Poppadum
  • Chutneys – coconut, garlic, chilly
  • Selection of rice – white rice, par boiled pinkish kerala rice, pulao
  • Sweet dish like payasam
  • Round off the meal with tangy tamarind rasam

Other delights beyond the thali include:
  • Dosas
  • Idliappam, pongal are available only at breakfast and evening at 7:30 am & 4:30 pm
  • Mango lassi 
Contact Information of Arya Niwas, ThiruvanthapuramManorama Road
Thampanoor
Thiruvanthapuram
Tel. Ph: 91-471-2330789/2330423


Allepey Ahoy!

                                                 There's Something about Allepey!

                                                 Through A Houseboat Leisurely....
Allepey Houseboat

Allepey Backwaters

Allepey Houseboat

Allepey Houseboat

Allepey Houseboat

Allepey Houseboat - Dropping Anchor

Rest Pause at Allepey

Allepey Houseboat Stop

Allepey Houseboat

Serene Blue Backwaters of Allepey

Allepey Backwaters Sunset

Allepey Backwaters Sunset

Allepey Backwaters Sunset
                                                

Staying and Dining out in Thekkady

Hotel Ambadi's Restuarant Aditi
The name Ambadi derives from Lord Krishna's childhood abode
Hotel Ambadi, Thekkady
Hotel Ambadi is one of the hotels that’s retained its traditional Kerala archictectural structure. It was built by the famed Laurie Baker who pioneered the use of local materials in construction.

Hotel Ambadi, Thekkady
Laurie Baker created Hotel Ambadi on a private commission, a first in the hotel sector in India. Besides the beautiful wooden traditional structure, it offers more. If you’re in Kerala and want the best South Indian breakfast then eat At Aditi, Hotel Ambadi's restaurant. The chutneys are to die for!

The hotel mainly caters to package tours and with its restaurant packed, there may be a wait to score a table.  But be assured the wait is well worth it.

Hotel Ambadi, Thekkady, Reception
You can always sit in the lovely reception (see photo above) or browse at the Kashmiri shop in the passage to the restaurant or step outside and look at the handicraft shops there.                

How to Reach:                       
Thekkady is a 5 hour drive from Munnar 4 ½ hours from Kochi, just 5 km from Kumily, a cycle ride away from Gavi and around 3 hours from Vagamon paragliding retreat.

Things to Do in Thekkady: There’s the famed Periyar reserve with boating. Thekkady is the best place for shopping for spices.    

Contact information of Hotel Ambadi:
Call: 91-4869-222-193/194/195
Email:   ambadithekady@gmail.com

The Lake Village Heritage Resort

Accommodation in Kottayam
After a long journey and a dusty road, at Kottayam a pleasant surprise awaits you

Back View of the Windsor Castle Kottayam

The Lake Village Resort: There are two parts to the hotel complex. There’s the multi-storeyed modern hotel complex - Windsor Castle and behind it, beyond the swimming pool, is the traditional Lake Village Heritage hotel. It has wooden cottages built in traditional style with open air bathrooms. The cottages are set amidst a lovely lake with ducks and bridges. 

Lake View Heritage Resort - Kottayam

Lake View Heritage Resort - Kottayam

Lake View Heritage Resort - Kottayam

Lake View Heritage Resort - Kottayam

Lake View Heritage Resort - Kottayam

There’s a traditional temple pond 

Lake View Heritage Resort, Kottayam - Temple Pond

There's also a separate dining restaurant in the heritage style of Nalukettu, four halls opening on a courtyard.

There are boats to take you on a lake ride or open deck chair boats for backwater cruise

 

It is peaceful and serene. It is a great place if you’re looking for a quiet getaway.        Places to Visit in Kottayam: Poonjar Palace
Contact – 481-2363637/2363 /Email:wcastle@sify.com
How to Reach: The nearest rail head is Kottayam Station

Revi Karunakaram Memorial Museum

Revi Karunakaram was a patron of the coir industry. Over the years he created a fine collection of art which is now housed in a museum which opened in 2006. Besides the backwater cruise you can make a visit to this museum. The 2 hours seeing what's on display is well worth it. 
The 10,000 sq.ft. of the Revi Karunakaram Memorial Museum has on display:
  • Tanjore paintings
  • One of the largest ivory and Swarovski crystal collections
  • The social and cultural heritage of India in a 200 sq.ft, mural
  • Made exclusively of vegetable dyes and 4160 hours of work
  • A Kerala room dedicated to architecture,
  •  Antiques and Lladro porcelain
  •  A 1946 Buick super model car belonging to Revi’s father
    Location: The Revi Karunakaram Memorial Museum is located at Allapuzha (Allepey) - 688012, near the Powerhouse Bridge.

    Timings of Revi Karunakaram Memorial Museum: 9 am to 2 pm on all days except Mondays and Public Holidays.

    Entry fees at Revi Karunakaram Memorial Museum:
    - Rs.100 for Indians 
    - Rs.250 for foreigners
    Note: No cameras allowed

    Contact Information of Revi Karunakaram Memorial Museum:
    Ph:  477-2242923
    Email:info@rkkmuseum.com 

    How to Reach Revi Karunakaram Memorial Museum: 
      From Kochi you can take the ferry to Allepey. 
      From Quilon,  that is an hour from Trivandrum, you can take the ferry to Allepey. 
      Check any South Indian railway trains and whether there’s a halt at Allepey.

Attuvela Mahotsavam, a Temple Waterscape

The Elankavu Sree Bhagavathy Temple, Kottayam will be host to a special musical festival in March.   
Date – March 25th

Venue – Elankavu Sree Bhagavathy Temple, Kottayam

Percussion music integral to temple fairs play as canoes large and small ply the waters, wending their way to the temple. In the warm glow of the illuminated canoes watch the Elankavu temple replicas borne towards the temple over a distance of 2 km. It is called the Attuvela Mahotsavam,  celebrating the visit of Goddess Kodungallur Bhagvathy to her sister Goddess at Elankavu.


How to Reach: The temple is at Vadayar village which is 3 km from Vaikom, Kottayam. The nearest rail head is Ernakulum (Kochi) 30 km from Vaikom. There are also local buses from Ernakulum and Kottayam.