My Eyes on Kerala: February 2012

Picturesque Munnar Auto Ride

Munnar in an Auto

Munnar View

Sunset in Munnar

End of the Auto Ride in Munnar

Also see

Munnar Sightseeing

Tips on Munnar

Edassery's Farm Yard

Edassery's Farm Yard - Adimali

Collage Pix - Edassery's Farm Yard - Adimali

Where's this pretty green point? It is in Adimali, Kerala, called Edassery's Farm Yard. A beautiful place to take a break. They have meals, soups and the South Indian dosas. It’s okay cuisine, nothing outstanding but not bad either, but it’s really clean. And it’s a real surprise as it’s screened a bit by the trees.

Find it on the Kottayam- Kumily route.
Address of Edassery's Farm Yard:
National Highway 49, Chattupara,
Adimali, Kerala - 685561
Contact - Tel. 04864-224210, 224312

Shopping at Jayalakshmi Silks

Shop Till You Drop

Jayalakshmi Silks - Kochi

Jayalakshmi Silks is situated on the main road of Kochi - MG Road. It is always packed with shoppers as Jayalakshmi offers quality and value for money. There are 5 floors with each devoted to a particular niche:
Women's wear, Men's wear, Wedding trousseau, Children's wear. The range of readymades is dazzling be it shirts and sherwanis to salwar sets. Fabric is also available in mindboggling variety. It is a sheer delight to shop here because the staff are attentive without being intrusive.

Visit just to see how the staff drape the sarees so that the purchaser can see the final look in a mirror that's rolled in. See pix below.

Jayalakshmi Silks - Kochi

There's coffee handed around when fatigue sets in and enough seats for those who tire, especially the men who watch their women folk shop till they drop!

Contact Information:
1. For Jayalakshmi Silks Kochi contact - 484-99999
2. Jayalakshmi Silks has now opened shops elsewhere, too. There's one in Thiruvanthapuram's MG Road, which is even more spacious with 6 floors. Ph: 471-99999
3. There's a branch in Kozhikode Ph: 484-99999
and more coming up in places like Thrissur.

Vivekananda Rock

It is on a rock isle rising up at the confluence of the Bay of Bengal, Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea

Kanyakumari - Vivekananda Rock - sea colour change

This is the rock island is where Vivekananda attained enlightenment that propelled him on his path of a spiritual reformer in 1892.

There is the Vivekananda Mandapam (Hall) enshrining the seat of Vivekananda’s enlightenment – the famed Vivekananda Rock

Collage Pix- Kanyakumari - Below - Vivekananda Rock Memorial Above Dhyana Mandapam

There is a Dhyana Mandapam (Meditation Hall)

Kanyakumari - Dhyana Mandapam (Meditation Hall)

In 2004, this memorial saved many during the tsunami as they clung on as tidal waves buffeted them. Some of the first visuals of the tsunami came from a tourist stranded here. There’s a memorial commemorating those who lost their lives in that natural disaster.

Kanyakumari - Memorial to 2004 Tsunami victims

There’s also a small arch that marks the limit of India on land.

Kanyakumari - Last land tip of India in the south

A 40.5 m statue of poet saint Thiruvalluvar next to the Vivekananda Rock memorial isle.

Kanyakumari - Thiruvalluvar statue from mainland

Kanyakumari - Thiruvalluvar statue from Vivekananda Rock

Reach

Regular ferry from the mainland in Kanyakumari, queues are long.

Walkway to Vivekananda Rock

Kanyakumari - View of mainland from Vivekananda Rock

Timing: 7 am – 5 pm except Tuesdays

Tourist Tip: See it from the mainland when lit up.

Suchindram Thanumalaya Temple

The word Suchi means pure. Lord Indra is the Hindu God and Suchindram means "where Indira comes to be purified".

The shrine is dedicated to Thanumalaya, the Hindu God. The word Thanu refers to Lord Shiva, Mai to Lord Vishnu and Ayan to Lord Brahma. The Suchindram temple came under the purview of the Travancore kings, before Kanyakumari became part of the state of Tamil Nadu.

Suchindram Temple Pond

Suchindram Temple

Suchindram Temple - side

Suchindram Temple

Suchindram Thanumalaya Temple Features

It is 7 storeys = 134 ft in height.
The Gopuram – temple entrance is 40 m/ 24 ft in height.
The most remarkable feature is the temple’s musical pillars. Four carved out of a single stone fan out into smaller pillars. Two of these have 33 similar pillars and the other pair have 25 similar pillars. Strike them and hear a musical note corresponding to the 7 swaras (notes). This is the best part of the temple because it’s something out of this world.
Another sight worth seeing is 1108 sculptured women holding aloft oil containers.
An 18 ft statue of Hanuman in the form of Anjaneya carved from a single block of granite
A lime and mortal Makkalai, the Nandi bull of Shiva, 13 ft high, 21 ft long, 10 ft wide

How to Reach Suchindram Thanumalaya Temple: Nagercoil is the nearest rail head. Take the time to see the century old clock tower presented by missionary Duthie to the king of Travancore. Take a Bus from Thiruvanthapuram and Kanyakumari.
Tip for visitors: All are welcome but like other temples in Kanyakumari and Kerala, men are allowed entry only bare chested.

Kuttiyatam Kendra

Kuttiyatam is a 2000 year old Sanskrit theatre form. The word Kuti is Malayalam for combined and Attam means acting. It has been declared by UNESCO as A Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. It is the sole surviving ancient temple art of Sanskrit drama, kept alive by an actors’community known as Chakyars. The female performers are called Nangiars. The drummers are Nambiars.

What is Kuttiyatam?
Kuttiyatam originated as a Sanskrit form of drama. Literary expressions known as slokas included upama (simile) alankara (embellishments) utpreksha (metaphot) atishayokti (elaboration) varnanas (elaboration) slesha (multiple meanings) dhvani (implication). Recreating a narrative form to a performance form on stage necessitated a stylized and elaborate art of acting accessible only to those acquainted with its grammar.

Since it requires recital of slokas as it is being performed, unlike Kathakali, there’s less rapid vigorous movement and therefore no concluding tandav sequence towards the end of a performance. In fact, in Kuttiyatam, the feet move rarely and with little variation. Kuttiyatam is considered to be the precursor of Abhinaya (Acting).

Venue of Kuttiyattam performances
Kuttiyattam Kendra at Thiruvanthapuram. The Kendra is organising performances at various places in Kerala.
Time – 10 am to 9 pm
February 22 - Nirvahanam of Sugreeva (Balivadham) By Guru Kalamandalam Rama Chakyar
February 23 – Jatayuvadhankam By Pothyiyil Gurukulam
February 24 – Kuttiyattam & Kathakali - An inter-active performance Thoranayudham (Ravana) By Guru Ammannur Kuttan Chakyar
February 25 – Udyanaprevasam (Ashokavanikankam) By Guru Ammannur Kuttan Chakyar
February 26 – Subhadradhananjayam By Margi
February 29 – Workshop - Swara of Kuttiyatam – Actors’ Perspective
Guru Kalamandalam Rama Chakyar (Painkulam/Kalamandalam tradition
Guru Dr. C K Jayanthi (Mani tradition)
Guru Usha Nangiar (Ammannur tradition)

Contact Information
Thiraseela, Thiruvanthapuram
Ph: 04712420084
Or
Sangeet Natak Akademi
Ph: 01123387246
Email: mail@sangeetnatak.gov.in

Secluded Beaches in Kerala

1. Bekal Beach: This beach is 1 km away from Bekal Fort is one of the cleanest beaches, Bekal beach which offers a place far from the madding crowds. Since it’s part of a beach development project, it’s an extremely clean 19 km stretch. It’s a boon to families with kids as there’s a separate Children’s play area with a park. Bekal is the gateway to the untouched beaches of Kerala.

2. Kappil Beach: 5 km away from Bekal beach is the even more secluded and untouched Kappil beach and the Kodi cliffs are a stone’s throw away from it.

3. Azhitala beach: 25 km away is Azhitala beach.

4. Kanwatheeratha Beach: 3 km from Majeswaram is Kanwatheertha beach whose main attraction is the sea segueing into a formation resembling a swimming pool in the midst of the long beach.

Nearby the beach, you can Cruise Along: The lashing of the sea gives way to the serene backwaters of Kasargod 18 km away. The stretch of Valiyaparamba is an hour’s drive from Bekal where you can take a boat cruise as the National Waterway passes through this island haven. There’s the regular ferry as well as the houseboats for this charming backwaters.

Bekal Fort – A Date with Dance

The red laterite Bekal fort shaped like a key hole is a photographer’s delight and has featured in countless ads, films - Mani Ratnam’s Dil Se - and videos.

Now it will showcase Astad Deboo, the acclaimed contemporary dancer who is to perform at Bekal Fort to the music of Manipuri drummers (Pungcholam) and the sound of the waves crashing against its three sides.

Date of Performance : Februray 28, 2012.

For further information: astaddeboo@gmail.com

Read this interview about his work with Pungcholam drummers.

Venue of Peformance: Built in 1650s by Shivappa Naik of the Ikkeri dynasty for defense purposes, Bekal is the largest and better preserved forts in Kasargod.

Bekal Fort Sights

There’s an Observation Tower girded by cannons, there’s the ammunition magazine which is closed to the public and an underground tunnel as well as a water tank. The steps leading to the water tank and Observation Tower are still in good condition.
Climb up the broad steps of the Observation Tower for a splendid view of the Arabian sea and the 40 acre sprawl of the fort as well as a glimpse of the nearby towns of Kanhangad and Pallikare.

Tip for Sightseeing at Bekal: Visit in evening. Carry packed food and water, just a few juice stalls in the vicinity.

Reaching Bekal: It is 16 km from Kasargod, take the train and drive down.

Kerala Puppet Theatre Pava Kathakali

Pava Kathakali

The Glove puppeteers of Kerala who perform Pava Kathakali are distinguished from other forms of puppetry by their classical roots. It was prevalent in Palakad district in the 18^th century. The Aandipandaras, (Telugu for Puppeteers), came to Kerala from neighbouring Andhra Pradesh and sometimes Tamil Nadu and performed Aryamalas, Tamil puppet shows and had forms of Buddha till with the genesis of Kathakali, the puppeteers began to carve their puppets into figures of Kathakali. The Aandipandaras, who were wandering puppeteers no longer exist but Pava Kathakali once performed in homes and courtyards in rural villages lives on but largely in urban centres dedicated to preserving its form.

The Puppets they use are 1 to 2 ft in height. Made of wood and ornated with peacock feathers, transparent coral and such adornments.The wide Kathakali costume flairing at the waist conceals a bag through which the puppeteer manipulates the puppet. The puppet’s head moves to the index finger and the hands to the motion of the middle finger and thumb.

The performances draw from the epics depicting the story, for instance, of Duryodhan's end at the hands of Bheem from Mahabharata and Ravana ft the hands of Rama from Ramayan.

The performance takes place on a stage lighted by a traditional lamp before which the puppets come to life in front of a mini screen as a singer narrates the story in Malayalam set to music by an ensemble of 6 musicians.

Tailored for a younger audience now, Pava Kathakali unfolds over 1-2 hours whereas a Kathakali performance would last through the night.

Venu G. has been instrumental in reviving this lost art.Contact him for performances, training and purchasing puppets at:
Natana Kairali Ammannur Chakyarmadhom
Irinjalakkuda
Thrissur 680 121
Ph: 91 480 2825559
Email – venuji@satyam.net.in

What to see at Padamanabhapuram Palace

The Padamanabhapuram Palace is named after the presiding deity of Travancore, Lord Padmanabhaswamy, Lord Vishnu’s reclining form. It got this name when it was rebuilt in the 18^th century by Marthanda Varma during whose reign the kingdom of Venad became the famed Travancore. And it is from the Padmanabhuparam Palace that Travancore kings ruled before the seat of power shifted to Thiruvanthapuram in 1795 AD. In its earlier avatar it was built in what is called Nallukettu style of a traditional mud structure in 1601 AD by Iravipillai Iravivarma Kulasekhara Perumal.

Even today, 500 years after, it’s not merely tourists but architects and habitat conservationists who flock to the Padamanabhupuram Palace to study its traditional Kerala style plans. For its unique 14 all wood structure of teak, ebony and mahagony spread over 6 acres that has weathered the test of time with elegant grace.

The Palace comprises of:

· The “Mantrashala” or King’s council chamber above the first floor entrance

· The “Ekandamandapan” or the Abode of Solitude which is part of the “Thai Kottaram” the earliest building to come up in the palace complex

· The “Nataksala” which is the columned dance hall that opens out in front of the Shrine of Goddess Saraswati. Women watched the performances from the holes in the wooden slats running alongside and others through holes in the ceiling above

· The “Thekee Kottaram” which means Southern Palace is now the heritage museum

· The four storeyed structure built by Marthanda Varma at the centre

The USP of the Palace

· 108 opulent rooms that will take your breath away (pun intended)

· A 300 year old clock tower whose clock is still ticking

· Lattice windows that Laurie Baker adapted

· Sloping roof with gables

· Natural air conditioning in the form of tanks below benches on the lower floors. Scent from herbs in the water wafted upwards leaving behind a soothing fragrance

· 18^th century Puja murals on the second floor of the 4 storeyed structure

· Intricate floral patterns on ceilings in the rooms

· Coloured Mica window panes in the “Mantrashala”

· Detailed floor paintings in the “Ekandamandapan”

· A trapdoor with a secret passage

· A single piece of jack wood creates a stone and column

· Belgian mirrors and Tanjore miniatures of Lord Krishna in the private quarters

· Raja’s bed – a four poster given by the Dutch and made of 16 medicinal wood extracts

· Raja’s bedroom carved with human figures, birds and a snake symobolising the physician

· 4 km long stone and granite fort surrounds the Palace

· Floor finish process now extinct:

The floors were brushed with burnt coconut shells

Sugarcane extract, banana and egg whites was poured as a sealant

Coconut husk was used as a polishing agent

Voila, a rich wooden hue of mahagony

Reaching There

It lies between Thiruvanthapuram (52km) and Kanyakumari so you can catch the bus going either way – from Thampanoor bus stand in the former or back from the latter. You can also take the bus going to Nagercoil(20km). Get off at Thakkaly and proceed to the Palace

Bamboo Symphony

Is it a bird, is it a plane, no, it's bamboo!

UnniKrishna Pakkanar uses bamboo to speak out against the destruction of the environment. He raises awareness about conserving the Western Ghats and Athirapally in particular through bamboo instruments and folk tunes with a team of friends. All of them hailing from Trissur live near the Chalakudy river.

10 years and 10 specialist musicians between them have made music from 60 instruments, each with its own timbre. Each tune that breathes from the bamboo celebrates different things- natures, God, music and the environment. It was this band of musicians along with local residents of Chalakudy who put a bamboo spoke so to speak in government plans to build a dam to harness the Athirapally waterfall that plunges into their beloved river. Just days ago it was Unnikrishna’s bamboo symphony that inaugurated the Mumbai International Film Festival 2012 for shorts, documentaries and animation films.

Taking the movement further is UnniKrishna’s Institute of Bamboo Music.

For further details of where you can see his team play or learn at his Institute

Contact:
UnniKrishna Pakkanar
Kottanelloor.P.O.Trissur District
Kerala – 680672
Mobile: 91 9048 529 921, 9495 637 737
Email: pakkanar@gmail.com

Listen in to the recreation of the sounds of the forest be it chirping birds or ripple of the river…www.youtube.com/user/pakkanar

Visiting Elathur

A quaint little town with the feel of the backwaters village is Elathur. A river swings down its north boundary – Korapuzha river. A sea embraces it to its west – Arabian Sea. A canal runs through it – Canoly Cana.

How to reach Elathur: It is 10 km from Kozhikode. Take the bus from KSRTC bus station

Things to Do in Elathur

· Take a boat ride

· Breathe in its uncrowded environs

· Gaze upon the Canoly canal named after R.Canoly former British Collector.
Imagine a time when this link between Korapuzha and Kallayi rivers was a
busy waterway ferrying folks and goods to Kozhikode when it was built in
1948 by Malabar Collector R.Canoly

Pages