Tips for Munnar Sightseeing

Vistas of Munnar

There’s something called The Gap, which is supposed to give a panoramic view of Munnar. It’s over-rated. Really want a view? Trek to Anamudi, the highest peak in South India. Over 2695 mts.
There's also a trekking trail is Anamudi-Rajamala-Meesapulimala-Top Station-Kundala-Devikulam.

There's also mountain climbing, paragliding and rock climbing
Call District Tourism Promotion Council-Track Finder-91-0486231516

For those who prefer wheels, hire an auto, yes, they will charge, but you can bargain. Hop in and they’ll revv you around to nearby spots. There’s Devikulam (7 km from Munnar) with a Sita Devi Lake, a natural picnic spot. Pothamedu (6km from Munnar) which offers tea and cardamom plantation views. Or there’s Attukal (9km from Munnar) with its waterfalls. They’re all in the vicinity of Munnar and worth seeing in an auto because it’s open on both sides, the plastic flapping away the drizzly rain, the cold chill wind that seeps in edgeways….it’s not the same thing in the plush comfort of a car, believe me. The auto ride was worth every penny and those who returned exhausted trying to spot the animals in the parks said they should have just done this auto sightseeing rather than following their itinerary - See Munnar Sightseeing

Or take a jeep safari to the highest tea plantations in the world - Kollukumalai. Costs Rs.1500.

Or just sit tight and enjoy the view from the comforts of the hotel room. This is from Tea Castle, Chithirapuram, Munnar:

Overview of Munnar

Munnar is a hill station in Idukki district. There’s Munnar, the town and Munnar, the hill station. Enter Munnar wafted by the scent of cardamom and soothed by the neat tea plantations...

Entering Munnar - First View of Tea Plantation

And then get into the busy market part of Munnar town. Drive further and upwards on....

The real Munnar is the old town, called Chithirapuram. Here are the wide roads, the old style cottages and the best views of Munnar the hill station. 

Munnar - Chitihirapuram Sunrise View

The Real Trekker Trail in Kerala

• Imagine the entire region of Malabar.
• Imagine the breadth and width of 6 districts: Palakkad, Malappuram, Kozhikode, Wayanad, Kannur, Kasargod.
• Imagine doing it on foot. 
• Imagine going through forests so thick with canopy that you will ache to see a slice of sky.
• Imagine trekking like this for 4000 km.  
• Imagine doing it for one full year - from November 2010 to mid-October 2011.
• Imagine doing this all to spot birds.

Take a bow C. Sasikumar, Chief Investigator and the four research associates, C.K. Vishnudas, S. Raju, P.A. Vinayan and V.A. Shebin.

• ·         The wing span they uncovered: 73.27% of all bird species recorded in Kerala.

• ·         They recorded 341 species of birds. Please note – species. Now imagine how many birds!

• ·         They did what no one else could before. Recording Density estimates of bird species like:

   Indian Blue Robin

   White-throated Ground Thrush

   Spotted Babbler

• ·         The highest density bird species recorded:

    Yellow-browed Bulbul

    Small Sunbird

    White-cheeked Barbet

    Red-whiskered Bulbul

    Black-headed Babbler

    Oriental White-eye

• ·         Rare birds spotted – It means just 1 sighting

                Jerdon’s Bush Lark

                Indian Grey Hornbill

                Sirkeer Malkoha

                Syke’s Warbler

Eating Out at Isola di Cocco in Poovar

Dining at Isola di Cocco - Poovar: A most beautiful, airy restaurant with a breathtaking view.

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Restaurant View through Pigeon Net

 The retaurant food is excellent though service could be quicker. Breakfast was a bit of mix and match but a vast spread. From omelette (made with one egg) made on the spot, cakes (very delicious), bread, idli sambar, pav bhaji, dosa plus non-veg dishes. Tea/Coffee as well as milk shake and pineapple juice.

They offered Kerala Cuisine for lunch. Avial (Rs. 120) was okayish. The Phulkas were nice and soft (Rs.5/- each). The Nan (Rs. 25 each) was not stiff like a poppadum but soft and filling. The coconut soufflé icecream made of tender coconut malai was really tasty.

The dinner was even better than the lunch. Unfortunately they had opened the new restaurant section for it and we rather preferred the original section. There was a buffet for Rs. 450 plus taxes which we didn’t opt for. We preferred choosing from the menu. There was a live veena performance playing film tunes and Gandhi’s prayer.  Candles were lit on each table. The smoke got in the nostrils but the food was divine. And the electric lights were on as well so we could see what was on the plate. It was jeera rice (Rs. 150), Dal Lazooni (Rs.120) was superb and the good ol’ phulkas (Rs. 5/- each). The best part was the dahi (curd) served in a nice big bowl. It’s not charged extra. This is true of other restaurants in Kerala as well. The portions are large and served for two more than adequately. 

Accomodation in Isola di Cocco - Poovar

Isola di Cocco resort has 3 types of rooms/cottages. 

• Heritage

 The wooden Heritage cottages have roofs that are found in the traditional Tharavud homes of Kerala, The heritage cottages have an open air bathroom. There’s a choice between Heritage Deluxe lake facing and garden facing and Heritage Suite. 

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Heritage Cottage

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Heritage Cottage

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Heritage Cottage - Open air bathroom

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Interior of Heritage Cottage

 

• Standard Pavilion 

          These rooms have bathrooms that are not open-air and are without the wood construction. 

•  Tree House

          There is a standalone tree house reached by a stairway with a beach view. This is in the vicinity of the restaurant, swimming pool and the private jetty where boats of the hotel ferry guests to the sandy stretch of beach. So it’s near everything yet affords privacy because unlike the other rooms, it’s the only one at a height and the only one with no adjoining accommodation. 

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Tree House Interior

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Tree House

 

Tip 

Take the Heritage Rooms, they’re really cool plus way different from the usual kind of rooms in a hotel. Only remember, open air plus wood means voices tend to carry.

Reaching Isola di Cocco

It is 4 hours from Allapuzha (Allepey); a 30 minute drive from Kovalam. 1 hour from Thiruvanthapuram (Trivandrum)

Where to Stay in Poovar: Isola di Cocco

Isola di Cocco means Island of Coconuts.

It is a beautiful resort.The Staff are courteous and really maintain the place. Spick and span.Solitude has taken abode here. Trifle poetic but really Nothing, not even yelling guests that some folks complain about can dent its serene silence.

Its vast property encompasses a sandy stretch of a small beach  with a hammock

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Sandy Stretch of Beach View

Private lakes where you can fish, a lawn.

Pathways drenched in flowers of many hues.

Isola di Cocco - Poovar

As well as a swimming pool. 

Isola di Rocco - Poovar - Swimming Pool from Restaurant Pigeon Net

Isola di Rocco - Poovar - Swimming Pool

There is a library and indoor games like table-tennis and carom board. Plus billiards. There is a Yoga centre and beauty parlour. A kids’ play area and a children’s separate swimming pool. Ayurveda treatments are on offer as standalone treatments or packages.

Isola di Cocco - Poovar - Ayurveda Centre (this picture from Resort Brochure)

 

Things to Do in Poovar

There is absolutely nothing to do in Poovar!

Nothing. Hats off to the fishing community here which makes sure tourism keeps its distance. Tourist boating is not allowed after 6 pm so as not to disturb the fishes. Sunbathing is allowed only for the crocodiles. Swimming is for those living in the sea only. So Poovar is still serene.

The only time Poovar’s backwaters come alive with the sound of human traffic is when the locals have their boat races. Catch them if you can! Or visit the village where Kalaripayyatu, the ancient martial arts form is still taught. Else, just lie about doing nothing. Let the birds chatter.

How to reach Poovar:
It’s not reached. It’s discovered. You can take the water taxis, get ferried by the hotel you may be staying at or…

By road, it’s a 45 minute drive from Thiruvanthapuram, Kerala’s capital. From the city centre, say, the tourist destination of Napier Museum in Thiruvanthapuram, reaching Poovar would be 1 hour. 

Or you can drive down 1 hour from Kanyakumari…it’s the tip of India, that falls in adjacent state of Tamil Nadu.

Kerala Must See - Poovar

Poovar – Uncork Yourself Here

Poovar. It’s a place where your soul, body and mind can find refuge. Once upon a time, King Marthanda Varma of Travancore did. He hid from his enemies under the protection of merchant Moosa Marrikar and legend says it is the king who gave Poovar its name. Enchanted by the sight of red kovala flowers afloat on Neyyar river, King Marthanda Varma murmured puar...and the name stuck. Poovar, from flowers (pu) and river (ar)…a river of flowers. And Marthanda Varma went on to regain his kingdom. 

Poovar – A Serene Picturesque Feast for the Eyes

• It’s the tip, almost, of Kerala, there’s only the one village after it, so in a sense, you could say it is the beach-fountainhead of all the beauty of coastal Kerala.

• Poovar beach separates Neyyar river from the Arabian sea. The beautiful Kovalam beach is a heartbeat away – just 15 mins drive from Poovar.

• During high tide, Poovar island links to the beach by an adjacent estuary when lake, sea, beach and river commingle.

• 44 rivers snake lazily into an expanse of backwaters, deltas, lakes, canals and lagoons.

• Coconut groves, banana plantations add a dash of green lushness to the serene blue of the waters. 

                                  

Ancient Port of Muziris

Muziris is the 3000 year old harbor port, now known as Kodungallur. It is at the mouth of the river Periyar. 2008 and 2009 brought its ancient heritage to light. It’s got many firsts to its historical credit.

• The first Jews in India came to Muziris
• St. Thomas launched Christianity in India from Muziris. The church he founded Kottakavu church still stands.
• Cheraman Juma Masjid, the first mosque in India is in Muziris
• The first temple in India dedicated to Goddess Bhagavathy is in Muziris
• The earliest European fort constructed by the Portugese – Pallipuram Fort

Some tour operators already offer day tours from 9am to 5 pm that will cover these places as well as some more sites like a 2000 year old Shiva temple, the actual excavation site.

Official Kerala Tourism Board Circuit tours are coming soon, too so enquire and plan ahead at:

Email: info@keralatourism.org; deptour@keralatourism.org

Web site: muziris.heritage.org

Hortus Malabaricus

News Flash – A Dutch Date with Kochi – March 2012

Hortus Malabaricus will be on display as part of Dutch Heritage Day in March 2012. What is it? It’s the famous botanical tome which means Garden of Malabar, which details the botanical treasury (over 700 plants, shrubs, trees) in 17^th century Kerala. It was published as 12 volumes in Amsterdam. It’s the labour of 30 years. Yes, that’s how long it took to finish. Van Rheede put it together with plenty of help from Ayurvedic scholar Cherthala. There’s more than the tome on display. The program design is in its nascent stage. Update to follow once plans firm up.

Kochi Hill Palace Museum

The Best Kept Secret Treasure of Kerala

It was the official residence of the Kochi royalty. It’s a museum on a hill so known as Hill Palace Museum. The first heritage museum in India. Why secret? Not because it’s not known, but because umpteen tour operator web sites on Kerala do NOT include it in their sightseeing itinerary. Why? Dunno. But don’t miss it. Coz it’s not just a single museum, there are 49 galleries plus the garden. 

The Main Building 

Not to Miss Sights

1. The actual gold crown studded with diamonds and precious stones that was presented by Vasco da Gama on behalf of the Portugese king to the Kochi king can be seen here. Also the throne and the room where Kochi acceded to India. No photos allowed so sorry, you’ll have to see it with your own eyes.

2. A musical instrument. A harmonium with pipes and a stage with if I recall correctly 20 Dutch dolls that move in time to the music. No, unfortunately it’s just for display. But having seen the musical clocks of Salar Jung Museum in Hyderabad, which do work, I haven’t seen anything so quaint. It falls on the left side when you walk down the corridor so keep an eye out because it’s not in a room, just mounted in an alcove in the wall after you come out from seeing the crowning glory. 

The Weapons & Chariots Museum

1. The paintings. They’re just unbelievable true to life. Like photographs.

2. The chariots. There are Bombay carriages and landaus…names right out of old Victorian novels…you can see in what style the former maharajas travelled. Yes, the upholstery has lost its glow, the wood is not polished but they don’t have a fresh coat of paint at least like everything else historic in Kochi. A bow to the museum caretakers for that. Better old than never. 

The Garden

It’s absolutely lovely with flowering bushes of all hues at every level so your eyes can feast on more than just the steps. They’ve really taken a lot of trouble to design it as you can see in the pix. 

Hill Palace Museum - Front View

Main Entrance of Hill Palace Museum, View from top of steps

Hill Palace Museum, Landscape Garden

Hill Palace Museum, Garden View

 

Reaching Hill Palace Museum

It’s in Thripunitura….that’s the area name, it’s just a 25 minute drive down from Kochi. You can reach it even via Allepey depending on your itinerary circuit because from Allepey, too, you can get on the road to Kochi.

And yes, it’s very much part of Ernakulum so don’t let anyone fool you into paying extra. If you’ve paid for sightseeing in Kochi, this is part of it, too. Make sure you get across this point loud and clear. It’s not out of the way and all that blah.

Once you’re there, the ticket window.

Adults – Rs. 10/-

Camera – Rs. 20/-

Light Vehicle – Rs.20/-

Then the driver will find a spot to park, there’s plenty of space within the grounds. Off you go. It’s a walk then a climb. But it’s not a steep climb, they’re low, broad steps that don’t trouble the knees too much. 

Tip for Sightseeing at Hill Palace Museum

Wear a broad-brimmed hat for the outside. Yep, it’s a wide open space again. Wear footwear you can slip on and off easily because no footwear is allowed in the main building. No cameras or mobiles either. The footwear must be deposited outside in racks. You’ll get a coupon. There’s a counter inside to deposit the mobile and camera as well. Coupon again. Collect everything while coming out and move to the adjoining building. Arrows all around so you can’t miss it. Footwear, cameras, mobiles are allowed in the Weapons and Chariots, Folklore and Numismatics Gallery next to it. But you’re not permitted to take photos. You can take plenty of photos outside. 

Timings of Kochi Hill Palace Museum:

Mondays and Public Holidays Closed

9am – 12:30am and 2:00pm - 4:30pm.

Accommodation in Kochi

Where to Stay

Deshadan Plaza – Main Avenue, Near Passport Office, Panamilly Nagar, Kochi – 682 036.

Email – reservations@deshadan.com

Deshadan Plaza Hotel, Kochi 

Location of Deshadan Plaza, Kochi

Within 15 minutes of the main shopping area. There’s a pool of water way down the road leading to it due to multi-storey building construction. But the hotel itself is in clear surroundings. Being away from the bustling part of the main MG Road, it’s nice and quiet, an oasis really in the heart of the city. There was no noise at night. Bliss in a city. 

Interior

Deshadan Plaza, Kochi - Executive Room

Deshadan Plaza, Kochi - Executive Room Double Bed

It’s the only hotel that offered two comfortable beds separated by a table. It’s got a nice, clean interior. Storage space is more than adequate. Mural painting on the wall which was abstract. Switches in the room are within reach. The bathroom levers for hot and cold water are steel rectangle blocks that merged with the rest of the steel design so it took a bit of figuring out to open. There’s air conditioning but no fan. Some hotel rooms offer a top view of Kochi and Kochi lit up at night is a sight to behold. Others offer road and building views. The TV offers all satellite channels. 

Food at Deshadan Plaza, Kochi

It has a 24 hours open restaurant. It had the best prepared jeera water. It’s the only one that offered the traditional Kerala appam at night. It’s actually a breakfast dish - sweet rotis (bread). The dinner was very good. Take the specials they offer for the day. We tried the lemon coriander soup (Rs.70) and it was super. Their phulkas (Rs.10 each) were as soft as they’re meant to be, too. The Aloo Gobi (potato-cabbage) veggie (Rs. 90)was not heavy. The portions are large, more than adequate for two.

The a la carte menu breakfast the next morning was disappointing. There was the traditional Kerala cuisine Puttu (ground rice cylinders with grated coconut in the centre), but it seemed a trifle unpleasing to the eye and heavy on the stomach. There was bread, jam; idli/sambhar; pineapple juice/tea/coffee; The food was laid on a table but with no place at the side to keep the lids when opened. The idlis were hard when they should be soft and fluffy. 

Service

Impeccable service standards. Extremely helpful. Got a scissor and stapler when asked for. Others have asked for a hair dryer and got that, too.

Fort Kochi tour

The real Fort Kochi

All tour operators will show you the usual sights: Dutch Palace, Chinese fishing nets, Jewish Synagogue, Santa Cruz Basilica Church, St. Francis church….but there’s more to Kochi than this….

In Fort Kochi alone there are places that hail back to the times when the Dutch and Portugese held sway. What they’ll show you is the church where Vasco da Gama is buried. he isn't, not anymore... End of history lesson as far as they’re concerned. If you really want to see Fort Kochi in all its pristine history, do it by foot. Ittakes an hour and a half.

Fort Kochi Walkabout

·      Fort Immanuel built in 1503

·      Dutch cemetery dating from 1724

·      Thakur House formerly Hill Bungalow for the National Bank British managers

·      David Hall standing since 1695 created by the Dutch East India company

·      Parade Ground where Dutch, Portugese aand British armies paraded

·      St. Francis Church built in 1503 which once interred Vasco da Gama before he was taken home to his native Portugal

·      Cochin Club that once played host to the British

·      Bastion Bungalow that came up in 1667

·      Chinese fishing nets dating from the time of Kublai Khan

·      Pierce Leslie Bungalow which was a coffee trading house

·      Old Harbor House which was a tea trading house in 1808

·      Koder House also dating from 1808

·      Princess Street with old European residences

·      Santa Cruz Basilica 

Santa Cruz Basilica - Fort Kochi

            

·      Delta Study dating from 1808

·      Vasco house that is one of the oldest Portugese homes

·      VOC gate – a wooden structure dating from 1740, it’s named after the Dutch East India Company’s monogram

·      Bishop’s House built in 1506, became the Portugese Governor General’s home

Tourist Tips

Take a local guide because if you ask the tourist cab drivers, they’ll tell you huffily that they’ve shown you the main sites.

Everything’s been given a spanking new coat of paint, even the churches, so you can’t really see it in its original but at least it’s all still preserved…some are hotels but just walk in, they do allow a look see.

Tip For Sightseeing at Athirapally Waterfalls

Visiting Athirapally - Sholayar Forest

Tips for trekkers to Athirapally Waterfalls:

• Note that the climb is steep and exhausting, so you need to be well-prepared!
• Don’t wear flip-flops. Wear sensible shoes or floaters with ankle support. 
• Keep a wide brimmed hat handy and a hanky/towel for the sweat because it’s all open ground and the sun beats down. 
• There is a sign that says “This way for Full View of Waterfalls”. Don’t bother. Despite the railing it’s a dizzying descent and foliage covers the full view. Best to head down straight rather than turn right at this sign. And folks with knee problems, don't even try and go via that right hand sign, don't let the benches for viewing your tired legs tempt you, there's a bench on the brown rocky part and you can still see it from there. Better still, if you can, go with a foldable chair. It's worth sitting and soaking in the view. 
• Getting close to the waterfalls is tough, again there's no proper place to put the foot from one boulder to the next, it's very steep but catch that bench, you can get a brilliant view still. And there are toilets right on the left of the entrance. 
• No stalls inside. So buy water or parch your thirst before going in.
• It is not one of those waterfalls that is a mild flow where you're allowed to stand under either, so warn the kids in advance. There's a small trickle water fall on the way to the next Vazhanchal waterfall where the kids can splash around.

Accomodation at Athirapally

Where to Stay at Athirapally - Sholayar Forest

Athirapally Waterfalls - Sholayar Forest

Don’t. It’s isolated and way off. And roads close at 7pm every evening as elephants cross. No, I didn’t see any. And if that’s what you want to see there are other places aplenty in Kerala for it. But there’s only this one into three waterfalls (Athirapally, Vazhanchal and Charpa) in the same state and location, plus a trickle waterfall as a bonus on the way, a rare sight. It’s a lovely place if you are in the mood of adventure but Rainforest is expensive and at Riverockvillas you will have staff telling you to jump into the river. If that’s your kind of scene fine, else just stay in Kochi. There’s also Bethania and Ayursoukhyam…but honestly leave the place pristine, take the view and let the locals their Sholayar forest please.

Visiting Athirapally WaterFalls

Visiting Athirapally Waterfalls

Imagine a place where water plunges 80 feet into a river (if you ask the tourist car driver it will be Periyar when actually it’s Chalakkudy). Imagine reaching there driving through a beautifully silent empty tree-lined road past monkeys and silent houses and restaurants and an amusement water park. Imagine getting a first glimpse in the form of a peek from a path leading down to a boutique hotel (Rainforest)….and then walking up and down on a knee crushing paved but uneven pathway and then a brown rocky incline and a dizzying descent (see video when the camera swings off frame)….and then it is right in front of you in all its furious exuberant glory –

That is ATHIRAPALLY - the breath taking (pun intended) beauty of the largest waterfall in Kerala. And send a silent prayer of thanks to the locals of Chalakkudy who fought to stop a dam’s construction which would have consigned Athirapally to a memory….

Drive down from Athirapally and get tranquilised by the smaller waterfall Charpa

...and then get thoroughly refreshed by Vazhanchal which has a more straight approach path and less walking to reach it with lots of seats, a garden with tree name boards, but no flowering bushes and play equipment which hasn't been maintained unfortunately. It would be great for the kids. This also has a soft drink stall inside. But it's really cooling to come here after the arduous climb to see Athirapally so don't miss it. This is where you can see it flowing almost touching distance. But just out of reach, though the spray reaches.

How to Reach Athirapally

It is 78 km from Kochi, that’s approx 1 hour 30 minutes but nearer to Thrissur so you can reach it even via Calicut….or drive down from Chennai in neighbouring Tamil Nadu and it would take approx 9 hours…

Seeing all 3 falls takes around 1 hour (fast) to 2 (slow-mo)…around Athirapally are trinket, tea, coffee, coconut water stalls….you can ask for the ones with less “malai” and more water(cost Rs.25)

Ticket to see all 3 on one ticket – issued by Kerala Forest & Wildlife Department

• Rs. 15 per adult.
• Camera – Rs. 10.
• Vehicle (Light Vehicle like car) – Rs. 10

Why Kerala is God’s Own Country….

• It’s got an estuary – where river backwaters, sea beach and lake meet – Poovar

(It’s where the sea is shut for tourist boats so that the fish can be left to the fishermen)

• It’s got paddy fields with bunds on which coconut palms sway behind backwaters – Allepey

(Yes, it’s the village where the houseboat cruise lays anchor)

• It’s got a hill station with tea plantations – Munnar

(Yes, it’s where Tata Tea tries to behave as if it owns the place with all its boards)

• It’s got a protected forest where roads close for elephants – Athirapally - Sholayar Forest

(Yup…you thought Wayanad, didn’t you?)

• It’s got a bustling city where you can shop till you drop  – Kochi

(M.G.Road…it’s everywhere isn’t it? Main road is always M.G. Road and he lived simply)

• It’s got the largest wildlife sanctuary around a lake – Thekkady

             (You won't guess but the lake is manmade and the silence is enough to soothe more than the Ayurvedic massage for which the place is famed)

• It’s got historical monuments when the Dutch and Portugese ruled long before the British came. Muziris

(Vasco da Gama discovered the direct sea link to India and is buried in Kochi)

.